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Hue
is one of the most popular
destinations for visitors to
Vietnam. Straddling the
Perfume River, this
mysterious, somber city is a
historian's dream come true,
with numerous 19th century
ruins, royal tombs and an
excellent museum.
The Imperial City of Hue was
the capital of Vietnam
during the reign of the
Nguyen dynasty, the last
dynasty in Vietnam. Even
today, the Vietnamese regard
Hue with awe and respect.
Hue also has the distinction
of being one of the rainiest
cities in Vietnam, receiving
more than 120 inches each
year.
Hue is dominated by The
Citadel, a moated, walled
fort, constructed during the
early 19th century. Within
these walls lies the
forbidden Purple City,
former home of the royal
family. The Citadel was also
the scene of brutal fighting
and staggering casualties
during the 1968 Tet
Offensive, when the North
Vietnamese held the fort for
26 days before being driven
out by American forces. The
damage inflicted to the
architecture is still being
repaired and the Citadel may
never be fully restored. In
somewhat better shape are
the various royal tombs of
the Nguyen emperors, which
can easily be reached by
boat, car or motorbike. The
historical museum is one of
the best in the country.
The Vietnamese regard Hue as
the pinnacle of Vietnamese
fashion, language and
cuisine. The women of Hue,
wearing the traditional ao
dai and non bai tho, are
reputed to be the most
beautiful in all of Vietnam.
The Hue accent is regarded
as the most distinct and
pleasing to the ear. The
food, including local dishes
such as banh khoai, is said
to be the tastiest. Some of
this is surely legend rather
than fact, but who am I to
argue?
You won't be alone when you
visit Hue. At any time of
the year this small city is
bustling with tourists. Hue
is on almost every tour
itinerary and it is the
northern terminus of the
infamous "open tour" bus
route. Lots of tourists also
means lots of hawkers, cyclo
drivers and children selling
chewing gum. It sometimes
seems impossible to walk
more than 10 feet without
being accosted by someone
wanting to sell you
something. Smile a lot, say
thank you (preferably in
Vietnamese) and go about
your business and you will
be left alone.
Hue can easily be visited as
a day trip from Danang, or
as an overnight stop on the
way to Hanoi or before
returning to Saigon. The
best time to visit Hue is
from May to August, when it
tends to be dryest. Bring a
raincoat anyway, as it's
still likely to rain.
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